Valley of mountains

Rwanda literally is the land of a thousand hills, with numerous lakes and rivers surrounded by volcanoes covered in lush, green forest. Although it was the most beautiful of the countries we visited, Rwanda truly looked in parts like the most populace place on earth. Outside the national parks, nearly every portion of land, even steep hillsides, was heavily cultivated. The roads were challenging and beasts of burden were rare (people carried enormous loads in wheelbarrows, on bicycles or on their head).

The genocide museum in Kigali was truly saddening. How could anyone do what some did to their friends and neighbours? The stories we read and heard were horrific, but as the museum was intended to show, that phase of the country's history has ended and a more unified approach has been adopted for the future. They say there is no longer a tribal divide, just Rwandans.

We were in Rwanda primarily to trek in Parcs National des Volcans, home of the mountain gorillas. We were based in a Christian mission in Ruhengeri, a town surrounded by silent volcanoes. The night before our trek was electric. There was a hint of rain, but neither that nor our warm fanta could dampen our spirits.

Next day, we signed up to visit the Sousa group, the largest and most distant family. We climbed very slowly through terraced farmland, bamboo forest and dense jungle bristling with nettles. We ascended about 1,000 metres but even the rarefied air could not stop Dana from talking most of the way up the mountain. Several armed guides were leading and trailing us for the 6-hour return trip.



Our first sighting was unforgettable. We dropped our bags, climbed a crest and there he was - gorilla in his natural habitat - an enormous silverback sitting amidst the leafy foliage, eating wild celery. He was totally fearless and impressive. After a short while, he got up and ambled off on all threes (he had lost a foot in a snare trap) to find the rest of his group of which there were 32 at that time, including the first reported set of twins. We quickly and quietly followed this gentle giant through the undergrowth until we were in the middle of a section of jungle that moved and swayed with all the gorillas hanging from trees, foraging and rolling around.











We saw several baby gorillas being groomed and play fighting (one beat its little chest). We could not have hoped for more. All the while, our guide, Olivier, was making guttural "ha-hum" sounds (clearing throat sound) to put the gorillas at ease. Although they appeared content, a silverback reminded us we were in his home when he stood up, pulled down a small tree and swung it at us as he trundled impressively past. His display of strength was not frightening but made us feel totally in awe.



Before we knew it, our time was up and we were heading back down the mountain. Just like our hour with the gorillas, our time in Rwanda was too brief. The people we met were gentle and kind and we would love the opportunity to return there.